Tuesday, October 27, 2009

China -the first days

Just to join those that say you can't go to China on a business trip and not take in some of the other great things to do there, here I go!

I got to China on a Tuesday afternoon, arriving at the gate on time at about 3:15pm. However, it was a long wait to get through immigration. The airport is astounding in its scope! The terminal I arrived in was built for the 2008 Olympics and accommodate the flocks of people attending the event, but I could not have prepared myself for the magnitude of its size. It is an impressive complex!

The next two days were a whirlwind of touristy visits, including the Great Wall, which is a marvel, but it's disappointing to know that the sections that most tourists see are reconstructed out of stone, when the originals were much different. As only relatively small sections have been done up for the tourists, there are still original remants that you can see. Although we didn't get to see any of these near Beijing, they are nearby. Still, the reconstructed wall is not to be missed. What I was impressed with was the steepness of sections of it. There was no giant earth moving machinery in those times, so wherever the ground was, the wall was built. Amazing to think of the amount of effort that went into it!

We also visited Tiananmen Square, the last day before it was closed to the public in preparation for the 60th anniversary celebrations, the Forbidden City, which is an immense site filled with more things to see than you could possibly fit into a single day, and the Summer Palace, which seemed appropriately palatial!

These sights, along with an impressive array of diverse foods, got us off to a rocking start!

Oh, and yes, we did actually view something grapevine-y! We were lucky enough to be able to visit Chateau Nubes, which is a winery yet to be opened, but is among quite a few start-ups (around 60) that are appearing in the area near Beijing/the Great Wall in order to capture some of the tourism market.

The courtyard of the unfinished winery. Underneath this area are the underground cellars.


No small outfit is this - the building is being made out of local stone, as per the native traditions of the area, and vast underground tunnels will hold the wine for ageing and various functions. The vineyards were young, and as the winters are harsh, with cold and wind-blown sand, all vines (own-rooted) are buried over the dormant season (more on this later!).

This is one of the three year old Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the vineyard. The irrigation water runs right under the vines. The main trunk is buried in the winter months. The cane to the left of the photo could be used as a replacement trunk.

The vineyards will eventually cover 50 hectares, but only 20 had been planted so far. Rainfall is only 200-400mm per year, so the vines are irrigated by furrow. The soil is basically sand (this was all desert, after all!) with a relatively thin layer of topsoil. Harvest of the approximately 6t/ha happens in mid-October, about the same time as the frosts arrive, funnily enough. All they had bearing at the time was Cabernet Sauvignon, which was in its third leaf this season.

Looking down the rows - note that the soil is hilled up in the centre - the soil that is used to cover the vines in the winter needs to go somewhere! This also limits the row spacing, as if it is too narrow, there isn't enough soil available to cover the vines!

One nice thing about the area is that at present, there is little problem with fungal disease, with copper sulfate for Downy Mildew control being used occasionally.

So on these first days we were exposed to the magnitude of China's largest city and its key tourist attractions, but also to the potential boom in wineries in the area around Beijing. The real estate agent's mantra, "location, location, location!" applies here as elsewhere - you need to be near the market! With lots of wineries popping up near Beijing, there are quite a few new businesses that are hoping tourist dollars (and curiously, the government, which buys a lot of wine to give as gifts) will help their wineries grow.

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