Photosynthesis, Carbon Dioxide and Higher Alcohol Wines

Let me preface this piece by saying that I'm a fan of lower alcohol wines. I was first introduced to wine in 1980s Upstate New York, drinking 11.5% Rieslings and, yes, Cayuga Whites. Red wines from the area, like Marechal Foch and De Chaunac (for an overview of hybrid varieties like Cayuga White, Marechal Foch and De Chaunac, see here) were in the range of 12-12.5%. At the time, this wasn't considered low alcohol, it was considered the norm.

Perhaps because of this early exposure to lower alcohol wines, I've always preferred them, and I actively look for them when considering a purchase. New Zealand, despite being a cool climate winegrowing region, now regularly produces 13-13.5% whites and Pinot noirs are often seen with 14.5%. This goes against my, personal, ideas of what these wines should be.

I look forward to wines from the really challenging vintages where grapes struggle to get as ripe as the winemakers want them. The 2012 vintage in Hawkes Bay had a really cool and extended ripening period and grapes were brought in at much lower sugar levels (measured in degrees Brix in New Zealand and other places) than usual, but it resulted in some very good, and more elegant, in my opinion, wines as a result, with the alcohol being in balance with the other aspects of the palate. New Zealand's most recent vintage was also a challenge due to rainfall in the ripening period, resulting in grapes being brought in before target Brix were hit. I tasted my first of this vintage's wine in August, a Marlborough Sauvignon blanc, that had all the hallmarks of the region, but with only 12% alcohol: it was a much more harmonious assemblage than with the usual higher alcohol wines of the region.

Having got that out of the way, what about climbing alcohol percentages in wine?

Rising average alcohol levels in wines has been a topic of discussion for some time, and various reasons for this have been put forth over the years. A useful study to look at was published in 2011 by Alston et al. where data from California was examined to show that average harvest Brix levels between 1980 and 2010 increased. Sugars in red wine varieties increased by an average of 0.23% per year over that period, and notably, in their Figure 1, Brix for red varieties was pretty much flat from 1980 to the mid 1990s, rising from there to the 2010 average of around 23.8°. This was particularly noticeable for the North /Central Coast and Delta regions, where the rate of increase was 0.72, 0.75, and 0.96%, respectively, between 1990 and 2008, compared to 0.53% for California as a whole (Alston et al. 2011 Table 1).

So fruit sugars are going up (at least in California) and the wines made therefore have higher alcohol. But why are the sugars going up?

A different take on this has come about recently, where people are starting to look at rising carbon dioxide (CO₂) concentrations in the atmosphere and linking this to increased plant productivity (e.g. here and here). This isn't a difficult link to make, as the process of photosynthesis takes CO₂ and water and with the help of the enzyme Rubisco, releases oxygen and sugar (in the form of glucose). It stands to reason that if you increase the availability of a starting material, you can end up with more product. This is assuming that other starting materials (Rubisco, water, sufficiently warm temperatures and light energy in this case) aren't limiting, and that the products don't start piling up in the area where they're being produced - if glucose and oxygen keep building up in the cell, the rate of photosynthesis will slow through a process called feedback inhibition.

So increasing CO₂ should mean more efficient photosynthesis and more sugars to go around? As we usually find, things aren't that simple.

There has been plenty of research into the effects of raising CO₂ concentration and its positive effects on plant growth and productivity, however, much of this has been with relatively short duration experiments. When plants have a longer time and a chance to adapt to the changed conditions there is more talk of photosynthetic down-regulation, or acclimation, resulting in relatively little change.

A review by Makino and Mae notes that longer term plant adjustment is a complicated system. For example, if sugar is being produced more quickly, but the plant does not have the capability of moving the sugars out of the cell fast enough, photosynthesis will be slowed by feedback inhibition. This kind of makes sense, too, as the plant would change things so that a balance remains between production and utilisation of photosynthetic products.

There is also a suggestion that seedlings have a greater response to high CO₂ compared to older plants, possibly because seedlings are generally carbohydrate supply limited, whereas older plants have a store of carbohydrates that are used when needed. Grapevines, being perennial plants, have decent carbohydrate stores even from a reasonably young age.

It's not just photosynthesis that can change, either - under climate change scenarios, increasing temperatures will also increase the respiratory activity of Rubisco. Yes, this enzyme goes both ways: it can help convert CO₂ into sugar, but the same enzyme also latches onto oxygen in the process of photorespiration. This opposes photosynthesis and makes the process less efficient. Photorespiration increases faster than photosynthesis as temperatures increase, so photosynthetic efficiency suffers.

And as Jamie Goode has pointed out (here in an article where he points out a whole bunch of interesting things on the subject) with higher CO₂ plants don't need to open their stomatal pores as much, because a lesser amount of air holds the same amount of CO₂. This can lead to less water use, as with less air movement in and out of the leaf, there is less water vapour lost, too. A side effect of this, however, would be a rise in leaf temperature due to less evaporative cooling (you can experience this by spraying your arm with water - it feels cooler right away because the water is evaporating, and to do that your body heat is used). Higher leaf temperatures could mean more photorespiration, and more time when the leaf gets too hot to keep the enzymatic machinery going. Higher temperatures, associated with climate change, will only make this problem worse.

The multiple changes to the environment will cause plants to respond, but exactly how they respond is really too complex for us to say at the moment, especially when you start to take into account that these changes will have an influence on all the other living creatures around and on the vine (disease organisms, insect pests, and don't forget the soil ecosystem!).

So the overall effect on grapes and wine gets hazy pretty quickly, with lots of factors, and responses, involved. Having said this, I agree with Jamie in that the rise in CO₂ concentration is not really what's responsible for increasing wine alcohol - that has more to do with consumer preference and technological advances.

For those that are thinking about strategies for dealing with high Brix and high alcohol wines, we have a number of tools in the viticultural toolbox, but this is a topic for another article!

Climate change and its interaction with winegrowing

A Radio NZ article about University of Waikato student Electra Kalaugher and her work on climate change and dairy farms, and the accompanying video was particularly timely, because at about the same time I was answering a questionnaire sent to me by a student studying an MBA in Bordeaux. Her thesis is on climate change on winemaking and how it concerns the French legislation relating to the wine industry.

Below are her questions and my answers to them. My thanks to her for permission to post the information here...

1-Climate change has been affecting the wine industry, like all fields in agriculture. What is your experience in the vineyards of New Zealand so far?

Of those events that are supposed to be altered with climate change, in recent years I think we have seen wider swings in weather events, such as rainfall, snow, frosts and the like. We have had some periods of significant drought, as well as highly unusual heavy rainfall. We have seen some late season frosts, and unusually large amounts of snow in some areas. However, it remains to be seen whether these events are considered to be abnormal in the longer term.

2-Do you think New Zealand will benefit from the climate change since the warmer areas expand?

It is possible that new geographic areas will open up to winegrowing as a result of the overall warmer temperatures. However, this will have implications for the existing areas, where the warmer climate may mean that making wine styles associated with a particular region could be made more difficult. For example, the Marlborough style of Sauvignon blanc is associated with the cooler ripening period that the region has experience. If temperatures rise, the flavours in the wines will also change, and so the wine style.

This is one challenge, and another significant one is the chance of more extreme weather events. Of the possibilities, early season or late season frosts are a particular concern for the wine industry, as many areas are already prone to damaging frost events, so having them occur later into the growing season, and earlier as the season ends and harvest approaches, will have a direct impact on profitability.

Some forecasts for seasonal changes in precipitation point to less overall rainfall as a result of climate change in the eastern parts of New Zealand. Therefore, water will become an even more valuable resource, potentially limiting grape production.

Overall, I do not think that climate change will be a beneficial thing for the New Zealand wine industry, but the reality is that we will have to deal with it.

3-What are the challenges that the wine producers have been facing due to climate change effects?

I've mentioned some of these already - the possibility of frosts happening later in the beginning of the season and also happening before fruit is harvested. Water availability has been an issue with the establishment of newer vineyards, with water schemes needing to be developed to ensure a reasonably reliable water supply. Increased heat means that some grapevines will need to be grown slightly differently in order to retain the flavour profiles that are wanted in the wine. Severe flooding has had minor impacts on vines so far, but this will probably be more of an issue in the future.

4-What kind of changes should be made in the vineyards in order to adapt the shift in climate?

Viticulturally, it will be necessary to change the management of the vines to retain flavour profiles - for example, doing less leaf removal, or changing its timing. Trellising systems may need to be changed to help with this, as Vertical Shoot Positioning, which is the most widely used system in New Zealand, may give the fruit too much exposure.

Irrigation management (and linked with that, cover crop management) will have to be tweaked to ensure vines don't get water stressed at inappropriate times. More efficient ways of delivering water to the vines, and measuring soil and grapevine water status, need to be developed.

With frost events potentially happening when vines have more canopy on them, more efficient ways of dealing with frosts will be needed. If enough water can be found (which is unlikely for large vineyards), sprinkler systems will work, but most are using fans or helicopters at the moment, which rely on the presence of an inversion layer, which holds warm air. As well, it isn't certain how climate change will alter the occurrence and strength of inversion layers...

New vineyards should be planted with future shifts in climate in mind. This encompasses most aspects of vineyards, but also variety choice and potential wine styles to be produced.

5-As a viticulturist, what are your conclusions for the future concerning the climate change effects, for New Zealand and also globally?

In my mind at least, climate change is a reality that we should be ready for. Planning for its occurrence, using the latest forecasts (e.g. NIWA's Climate Change Scenarios for New Zealand), is the best we can do. 

The wine industry will be able to cope with climate change, but it will likely have an impact on the financial planning, with increased risk of crop loss and increased management costs. The possible changes to wine style also need to be considered carefully, as the consumer may want to stick with the current style, but it may not be able to be grown in the same area or it wouldn't be cost effective to do so given the extra labour inputs.

Climate change and eco-mindedness

TizWine recently sent out a link to an article about climate change in California and its effects on the wine industry (Napa Valley Register).

It's not really focused on climate change in terms of  global warming, but more the climate of perception and ideas about vineyard management.

There is beginning to be more emphasis on looking at more than just dollars in the bottom line. The article describes how some parts of vineyards that were prone to flooding were ripped out to improve flow through it for wet times of the year. Native plants are being planted near vineyards to encourage native fauna (much like the Greening Waipara programme here in Canterbury) and increase biodiversity.

Then, the use of solar panels to generate electricity, the excess of which can be fed back into the grid (There are reasonably good rebate programmes in the States that assist companies to put in alternative energy generations - would that New Zealand had a similar stance), is described - these are sitting on the surface of a pond, which can have multiple benefits in that it would also reduce evaporation from the pond's surface.

Napa is cooler than one might expect from its latitude, primarily because fogs roll in off the ocean during the night, and don't burn off until later in the day. The change in climate will affect this, and I think it would be rather sensitive, too. If the fogs burned off a couple of hours earlier each day, there could be significant effects on the number of heat units gained in those areas. Likewise, if the fogs hang around for longer, things could be a bit cooler. On reflection, that could be a good thing - maybe the alcohol levels in the wines won't get so high! :-)

So to combat this, they're changing the orientation of the vine rows (typically they run north-south, so there is sun on the east side in the morning and on the west side in the afternoon) to more northwest-southeast, so that in the hotter parts of the day the sun-side of the vines don't get the full brunt of the light and heat.

As well, more leaf cover also can reduce fruit temperature and minimise the amount of berry burn:

In this picture, the leaves were removed over a shaded cluster and shoot, and the resulting exposure to the sun has done considerable damage to parts of the berries but also the shoot and rachis!

So keeping some leaves on to get dappled light on the clusters can be a good thing if you are growing in a hot area. Trellising choice also has an influence, as those systems where the fruit is below the canopy (e.g. pergola (overhead) or T-trellis)are better off in those conditions.

 A Parronal vineyard in Chile. Also called a pergola or overhead trellis system. Here shoots have recently been thinned from the vines to create a more dappled light effect on the grapes and ground beneath.

A T-trellis system in Australia. Here the grapes hang beneath the canopy, too, but there doesn't need to be an elaborate overhead wire system to support the vines.

Trellis systems like there are more commonly used for table grapes, where the appearance of the fruit is especially important.

There is no doubt in my mind that we will need to alter management of our vines to suit changes in climate over the next 40 years - as with all things viticulture, planning for it beforehand is the best approach. So read through the climate projections for your area, and make a plan to deal with the possible changes - before they happen and its too late!!!