Frosts in California (and elsewhere!)

I have mentioned frosts before (August 14 and October 17, 2009), but some recent news brings this subject up again.

Early season frost is a big problem in New Zealand, but also in a lot of other growing regions around the world, such as in Ontario, which I've talked about before. The latest news from California, in an article from Western Farm Press, details the aftermath of a couple of frost events on April 8-10 in areas south of San Francisco. Damage estimates suggested that about one-quarter of the 10,500 hectares of grapes in the Paso Robles area will have a crop that won't be commercially worth harvesting.

Any grower worth his weight in quality secateurs should know what the frost risk is when looking to develop a vineyard, and if the risk is perceived as being great enough, some sort of management system will be planned for the development

Results of a severe spring frost - all green tissues of the vine are completely decimated

If the frosts are mild, then passive means, such as having bare soil between the rows in the spring, which will maximise heat accumulation during the day and release at night, can give from 0.5 to 1.0°C protection (of course, careful decision making in site selection is the best means of passive management!).

Active means of management include such things as taking advantage of an inversion layer (where a layer of warm air sits above the cold air at vine level, and which tend to form on still nights with clear skies) and sending up a helicopter to push the warm air down to mix with the cold.

However, if the frosts are very frequent, then installing a permanent system becomes cost effective, such as the wind machines I've already written about, or using water sprinkled over the vines.

A frost fan installed in Central Otago. Plenty of snow-capped mountains around the area!

There are some big differences between the wind and water methods. The movement of air method relies on mixing the warmer air in an inversion layer with the cold air on the ground. This works great unless 1) the inversion layer doesn't have enough warm air to raise the temperature of the cold air to above freezing or 2) there is no inversion layer.

The former is heartbreaking, as you might be successfully fighting off the freezing temperatures, then just before dawn and the temperature rise that comes with it, the inversion layer is all used up and the grape buds freeze.

The latter has the same outcome, but then you don't have to spend all night running around trying to combat the frost!!

In some cases, the conditions are not right for an inversion layer to form, or the cold might be coming in as a mass of freezing air, for example, from nearby hills or mountains that have recently been covered by snow (this appears to be what happened in California recently). In this case, since there is no warm air around, fans and helicopters won't help. However, the application of water to the plants will work for all types of frost events.

The idea behind the application of water is that as water goes from liquid to solid form (freezes) it releases heat (heat of fusion).

So as long as water is freezing on the plants, heat is being released, effectively keeping the temperature at 0°C. Plant tissues can survive this temperature and even a bit lower without damage, so as long as enough water is supplied to always have some in the process of crystallising, the ice, and grape buds or shoots inside, will be kept from temperatures that might damage them.

Two types of post-mounted micro-sprinklers - these use quite a bit less water than the traditional impact-type overhead sprinklers

The down side is that if enough water is not applied, the temperature can continue to decrease, so if the application system breaks, or the water runs out, before the air temperature rises sufficiently, you can lose the new growth.

In the foreground row visible in this picture there is a number of vines where less growth is visible. This is because the sprinkler at the top of the post (centre left in the photo) failed during a frost event, meaning that the vines were not continuously covered with water - thus once the freezing stopped, the temperature of the ice and tissues within dropped to damaging levels. Note that there is a frost fan in the background - the fan isn't able to cover the area that these vines are in, so the sprinklers were put in to provide protection there.

My preference, if I were to plant in an area that was prone to frost events, would be to use water sprinklers. However, in some cases there wouldn't be enough water available for this. Large dams can be build to provide a source of water, but sprinkling even a hectare of ground with water for a decent frost can require up to 40 cubic metres of water per hour depending on the system used!

The concerning thing is that with global changes to climate, we should be prepared for more extreme weather events - in this context, we need to be ready for more severe frosts later in the season. Seeing as how some grape growing regions in New Zealand can have a potentially damaging frost in almost every month of the year (historically, anyway), this isn't good news!!!

Hands up those who thought being a viticulturist was a cushy job!!

How wet is too wet?

As the rain pours out of the sky today (30mm so far), with the ground already being so wet, pools of water are appearing everywhere, most alarmingly, in the back and front yards!!

As our own vineyard is on a slope, we don't need to worry about waterlogged soil, and many other vineyards in New Zealand are on free-draining gravelly soils, again, where water-logging isn't usually a concern.

However, in some cases, water can accumulate in the soil profile to above field capacity to total saturation, where no air spaces are left. If the water is free-standing for a while, it's not much of a problem for grapevines, but if it goes on too long, the roots will suffocate!

This is most likely to happen in the winter months, although in the spring if the snow in the mountains melts too quickly, you may get rivers overflowing their banks. In New Zealand, we can get flash floods in some places with heavy rainfall, and also flooding as a result of a lot of rainfall, saturated soils, particularly those that don't drain well (e.g. high clay content).

The difference between a decent-draining soil and a horrible-draining soil. These are two posts that I set in the ground yesterday - they're concreted in, but on the left the water has drained away, but for the post on the right the water is just sitting there. For the hole on the right, from about 20cm and down what I was digging out was almost pure clay! About 7m separates the posts.

In California and Oregon, back when I was studying on the West Coast of the US, there were several times of flooding, which meant some vineyards (or treefruit crops) were in standing water for weeks, or even months at a time.

So how long can roots survive under water? They need oxygen for the process of respiration, but in the winter, when the roots and above-ground parts of the vine are in dormancy, there isn't much activity in the tissues, so the use of oxygen is very slow. There can be oxygen in the water as well (this is how fish "breath" under water), and the roots may be able to take advantage of this, but the oxygen in the water that's near the roots, once the oxygen is used, the only way to replenish it is to have new water that has been exposed to air. Down in the soil profile, this doesn't happen so often!

So there are a number of factors that can contribute to the amount of time that roots can tolerate flooded conditions, but I'm of the mind that a few weeks shouldn't harm the roots or vines. In most cases, the water won't stick around that long.

During that all-important site selection process, these sorts of things should be investigated!

Meanwhile, I'll be hoping that the rain stops soon!!